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Injectors Choosing, be careful

4K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Naf  
#1 ·
Ok, at first i was on the search for 42# injectors...Then i found the Frod Racing, which are Matched...Thought they were really good, but then i got a set of Bosche Injectors...

Now you have to visualize, sorry no pics...

The head for the ford racing injectors are narrow and have four pin holes..The Bosche injectors have a larger head by a significant amount..And four larger pin holes...

I upgraded my fuel pump and added the direct voltage kit from Racetronix...

I am now runnin a LS2 fuel rail on a LS6 and at 64psi at idle and 63psi at 2000rpm...Dont know what the side effects will be later on, but man i am runnin silly rich...12.0 at IDLE...Recalibratin flow rate as we speak...
 
#2 · (Edited)
I am not sure what you are getting at? Is it that Ford injectors don't physically appear the same? what are the injectors rated at? a 42lbs injector rated at 3 bar will be larger than a 42lbs rated at 4 bar. Are you talking about the green tops SVO's (bright lime green) vs which bosch??
And yes, 4 tables need to be recalibrate to run different injectors properly, and would recommend that the injectors are flow matched, then enrich #7 and 8 just a hair with skew tables.

Where is the fuel pump on the cts-v tank located?
 
#3 ·
Naf there are proper calibrations for each injector. You can't just throw some numbers in the table and hope it works. I would recommend investing in greg banish's dvd on tuning and it includes well researched proper calibrations for almost every injector out there that one might use in a gm vehicle. The dvd is available from summit racing.
 
#4 ·
They are both 42# at 58psi or four bar...But the delivery point is the most different...

I am using Bosche pn 0280155968, which are much better then the ford red tops i was using...

I have the injector table and using it for a startin point...If you add to the Flow rate you ultimately will lean the mixture, if you lessen it, you enrich the mixture...I have my EFI tables workin for me and making small changes slowly...Like engines, not all injectors will flow the same...

Will keep yall posted to my progress
 
#6 ·
Im sure skull V is giving you the same thing, but he is referring to this xls... "CSI_HPT_Format_Injector Values.xls" that has good calibration sections needed to be used with HPTuners from gregs dvd.

Just for information interest, I do believe the bosch (Actual bench flow-test indicates 42.9lbs/hr (450cc) at 3 bar). So on a CTS-V fuel rail system, these would be seen as approx 50lbs.

I was curious though, where the fuel pump is located on the tank? Im curious its where abouts from the inside of the car to the tank without dropping the tank? is is under the middle back seat? left? etc...
 
#7 ·
I can let you know for sure in a few days Mapper. I'm dropping my tank to replace the stock fuel pump. A trap door would definitely be a handy tool.
Not sure if you've seen this or not, but here are a few pics of the tank removed from Bob's V: http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/projectCar.php?car=29
 
#11 ·
Geez, I have been through EPP's site, and saw the ls2 procharger setup, must have missed that tank picture. Thanks - gives a general idea of where to start. Just thinking is that the drivers side, or passenger, somewhat hard to tell orientation. Thinking driver side.
It would be gold to have a solid (from top view) picture of a dropped tank.
 
#13 ·
As you can see in the pics, the fuel filler neck is on the passengers side so the pump would obviously have to be on the drivers side.
 
#14 ·
I read this thread awhile back, and it finally came time to install my 310lph Ford GT pump, so I started on cutting the trap door. The main fuel pump is on the passenger side (the pump on the driver side I assume is to get fuel over the driveshaft hump).

It turns out the tank is actually pressed up against the floor of the rear passenger seat, so as soon as I started cutting I realized there was zero room and immediately stopped. Now I have to drop the tank, and maybe there will be room to cut a trap door with the tank out in case I ever need to change it again. However, I think the cross brace on the front side of the seat is over the front part of the pump assembly, so I'm not even sure there will be enough room. I'll try to get pics up in the next couple days.
 
#16 ·
meh, ditch the in-tank setup and get an additional inline like mine. My thread is on here somewhere.
 
#18 ·
I don't have them handy, but can crawl under there later and look it up. I had the local shop guy order me a basic inline 255 walbro, I'm not too sure if there are different versions or not, but can confirm when i get under the car.

I agree, the magnavolt is junk. I know some guys have had no problems on here but some have and It burned me once....won't happen again :D
 
#20 ·
Image


From this image I have sourced the following parts/kits:

Blue An Push-on

Walbro Pump Kit

I need assistance finding a high quality relay, the black piece screwed into the Push-on, the appropriate sized fuel line, and the male - male hose attachment piece on the upper right.

In addition - the actual thread is misleading - does this make the sump inoperable? I don't see how it could.

Also - the plumbing escapes me as well. The filter has an outlet that obviously goes to the rail but the two inlets - one (the shorter) is fed by the pump. What I have assumed thus far is the original line feeding the shorter filter inlet has the fitting removed, is replaced and clamped to the piece in the upper right of the parts photo and then attached and clamped to hose that leads to the pump inlet - the pump outlet then wraps around and leads to the shorter inlet on the filter.

Is that correct? And if so then what is the function of the longer inlet of the filter?

Lastly - assuming you all assist me in finding the identical relay -

Red wire is fed by the signal line from the original pump - that tells the relay to turn on.
White wire is ground for the relay.
Green wire?
Blue Wire?
Black wire - secondary ground to fuel pump?

Any help you can provide - and or anyone else looking to do this... I'd like to get a reliable part number list put up and then drop this on the FAQ.

Thanks in advance guys!
 
#23 ·
Sorry it took me so long to get pics up. First one is of the fuel pump assembly coming out:
Image


Next is of the pump assembly taken apart to replace the pump:
Image


Last is the trap door under the rear seat. A piece of sheet metal was fabbed up and sealed in place of the stock metal that is gone. That cut on the left is where I first attempted to cut and realized it wasn't possible with the tank in the car.
Image


I had contemplated the idea of going with an external inline pump, but I didn't want to add a fuel pressure regulator and a return line. I'm not sure how you would regulate fuel pressure without that. Although dropping the tank took a lot more work, I believe it's a better solution and will be more reliable.
 
#24 ·
Bringing this out from the dead as I need a new high output intank pump. How did the install go and where did you get the pump from? What other bits and pieces were needed?

Thanks.

Nik
 
#25 ·
As mentioned before, i left my VE tables alone and only messed with the injector flow. I do not know a thing about the magna volt though so i wouldnt be able to help...Find a proper tuner, they will know how to compensate for this.

I have the Racetronix fuel pump upgrade as well as hot wire kit. I replaced the small pulley to the stock so HOPEFULLY i get a constant voltage which will keep the fuel pump pressure right where it is suppose to be...

I was runnin 70LB fuel line pressures and it dropped to 58 so tunin was a pain big time...

I got an electronic fuel pressure sensor with alarm so i will know if i am too high or low...Runnin FAST 47# injectors now...