Does anyone know where the ignition control module is located on a 93 caddy seville sts.
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jcarama1
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yea, it still blinks on the dash panel when i go to trun the key and it makes a beeping noise. I just disconnected the battery and hopefully it will konk out the system. I read somewhere that is could be the oil pump is there any validity to that.
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You can always by pass the swich for testing purpose prior to puchasing parts.
Check out www.gaisha-shuri-buhin.com for all good used parts for your car.
Check out www.gaisha-shuri-buhin.com for all good used parts for your car.
Attachments
The only thing I've heard of is the pump losing it's prime, and the pressure relief valve sticking. But that usually after draining the oil. Have you done any work to the engine recently?
Is the ICM sometimes referred to as the Body Control Module?
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Body Control Module is also called PZM.
Oh thanx for all your help. I didn't know there were more than TWO computers on this damn car and when I look it up in the NAPA Pro Link only the ICM comes up (for like $250 OC). I just replaced the PCM about two years ago. I was told that the BCM is bad after scanning this confusing-ass OBD-I piece of shit.
Where is this computer located (BCM) and where do I get it (other than the snobby dealer)? Thanx.
Where is this computer located (BCM) and where do I get it (other than the snobby dealer)? Thanx.
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95 Posts
There are a whole lot of Microprocessors involved in your N* system.
BCM (aka PZM) is located behind your back seat , accessed thru the trunk,,check out www.gaisha-shuri-buhin.com for pics,,if you need more pics, let me know, I will post them on my website as above. Good Luck.
Ever since the introduction of electronic igntion systems starting for GM back in 1974, cars have had ignition modules.
The module mounted inside a distributor picks up an alternating current waveform from the "pickup coil" and turns it into transistorized electric pulses for the ground circuit of the ignition coil. When the transistor switches the ground side of the coil to ground current flows and a magnetic field forms in the coil, when the transistor is switched off, the current stops and the magnetic field collapses causing a higher voltage spark to be formed in the secondary windings of the coil and then transferred to the plug wires and the spark plug.
Modern distributorless systems still operate on the same basic principles, a "trigger" signal that tells the transistors when to turn on and off, only done with higher resolution crankshaft sensors and multiple coils instead of one.
Some modern engines have more complex control systems, the coil itself contains complex circuitry and relies on the PCM to tell it what to do when, so basically the PCM is the "ignition control module".
The Body control module or BCM,(sometimes comprised of 2 separate modules,the Dash Integration module and Rear Integration Module DIM and RIM) controls body functions and has nothing to do with ignition.
I'll go back and read what your codes are, but those should have nothing to do with a low oil pressure message. The message and the codes are unrelated.
If you know you have a good oil sending unit, and the wiring to the dash is good and the IPC is getting a correct signal you could very well have low oil pressure. Low oil pressure can be caused by pump problems, foreign material in the pickup screen or worn engine bearings or other components causing excessive clearances between critical engine components.
You need to attach a mechanical oil pressure gage to the sending unit port or with an adapter that mounts on the oil filter adapter to verify what the engine oil pressure actually is before proceeding any further. It's a wasted of time and money to replace parts when you haven't actually verified whether or not you have a real problem.
If you don't have the equipment, then I'd advise taking it to a shop and at least having them connect a mechanical gage, warm the engine up and verify the oil pressure. From there you'll either have to diagnose the electrical system that is indicating the low pressure condition to the IPC or tear the engine apart and locate the cause of the loss of oil pressure.
HTH.
Sorry for the length.
The module mounted inside a distributor picks up an alternating current waveform from the "pickup coil" and turns it into transistorized electric pulses for the ground circuit of the ignition coil. When the transistor switches the ground side of the coil to ground current flows and a magnetic field forms in the coil, when the transistor is switched off, the current stops and the magnetic field collapses causing a higher voltage spark to be formed in the secondary windings of the coil and then transferred to the plug wires and the spark plug.
Modern distributorless systems still operate on the same basic principles, a "trigger" signal that tells the transistors when to turn on and off, only done with higher resolution crankshaft sensors and multiple coils instead of one.
Some modern engines have more complex control systems, the coil itself contains complex circuitry and relies on the PCM to tell it what to do when, so basically the PCM is the "ignition control module".
The Body control module or BCM,(sometimes comprised of 2 separate modules,the Dash Integration module and Rear Integration Module DIM and RIM) controls body functions and has nothing to do with ignition.
I'll go back and read what your codes are, but those should have nothing to do with a low oil pressure message. The message and the codes are unrelated.
If you know you have a good oil sending unit, and the wiring to the dash is good and the IPC is getting a correct signal you could very well have low oil pressure. Low oil pressure can be caused by pump problems, foreign material in the pickup screen or worn engine bearings or other components causing excessive clearances between critical engine components.
You need to attach a mechanical oil pressure gage to the sending unit port or with an adapter that mounts on the oil filter adapter to verify what the engine oil pressure actually is before proceeding any further. It's a wasted of time and money to replace parts when you haven't actually verified whether or not you have a real problem.
If you don't have the equipment, then I'd advise taking it to a shop and at least having them connect a mechanical gage, warm the engine up and verify the oil pressure. From there you'll either have to diagnose the electrical system that is indicating the low pressure condition to the IPC or tear the engine apart and locate the cause of the loss of oil pressure.
HTH.
Sorry for the length.
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